Aiming to gain traction in the US sunscreen market, Kolmar Korea will expand manufacturing capabilities with a new production plant in Pennsylvania by early 2025. This strategic move is expected to significantly boost the company’s global presence and meet growing US consumer demand for innovative sunscreen and cosmetic products.
Kolmar Korea, a leading cosmetics original development manufacturer (ODM) from the Republic of Korea (South Korea), is set to open its second manufacturing facility in Olyphant, Pennsylvania by early 2025 as part of its American subsidiary, Kolmar USA. These production facilities are accompanied by an innovation center for research and development (R&D) at Kolmar Labs in Teaneck, New Jersey, which opened in July 2023.
Regarded as the first cosmetics ODM company in South Korea, Kolmar Korea specializes in designing, developing, and producing cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and health supplements for a wide range of brands. Recently, the company has aimed to expand its presence in the United States, particularly targeting the US sunscreen market, in addition to already holding a 70% sunscreen market share in Korea. By 2025, the US sun protection market is projected to reach $2.15 billion, making it the largest revenue generator for sun protection products worldwide and presenting a key opportunity for global expansion.
Korean brands leveraging Kolmar Korea’s technology have already found success in the US market, including Beauty of Joseon, d’Alba, and Skin1004. Most notably, Beauty of Joseon’s flagship product, the Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics sunscreen, went viral on social media, driving more than 10 million sales globally. Often praised for their lightweight texture, easy application, and lack of white cast, Korean sunscreens are gaining well-deserved recognition within the United States as US consumers are increasingly seeking innovative formulas for UV protection and skin cancer prevention.
However, sunscreen development in the United States is subject to much stricter regulations than in South Korea. In the United States, sunscreens are classified as over the counter (OTC) drugs by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), whereas in South Korea, they are considered cosmetic products. The United States has not approved a new sunscreen filter since 1999, while the European Union and countries in Asia such as Japan and South Korea have consistently authorized the development of advanced skin protection technologies. Additionally, only 16 active ingredients are permitted in US sunscreens, compared to the wider variety of ingredients and UV filters available in Korean sunscreen, like Tinosorb M (Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethyl butylphenol) found in Beauty of Joseon’s formula. Despite their accolades and online success, many Korean sunscreens, including Beauty of Joseon’s Relief Sun, remain unavailable at major US beauty retailers due to their chemical composition. Even Congresswoman Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez (NY-14) has confirmed Beauty of Joseon as her “ride or die” sunscreen, urging the public to contact their representatives to accelerate the approval process for UV filters.
Kolmar Korea has been authorized to develop sunscreen in the United States after obtaining its OTC certification in 2013. Since then, it has introduced the first stick-type sunscreen and secured over 50 patents for UV protection technology. With the opening of its new manufacturing plant in Pennsylvania and the innovative capabilities at Kolmar Labs, Kolmar Korea can reduce its reliance on external testing institutions and focus on crafting formulas tailored to a US clientele.
The recent surge in demand for innovative Korean sunscreen joins the already booming popularity of Korean cosmetics and beauty products, alongside the global rise of Korean cultural exports coined the Korean or “Hallyu” Wave. By the end of 2023, South Korea had surpassed France to become the top source of cosmetic imports to the United States. In 2024, South Korean makeup and skincare imports were valued at $1.76 billion, according to the United Nations Comtrade database on international trade.
Aiming for $100 million in sales within the next five years, Kolmar Korea has restructured its leadership of its North American subsidiary, bringing together global cosmetics industry experts to enhance strategic networks in R&D, production, and sales. This includes not only strengthening the company’s foothold in the US sunscreen market but also expanding its influence on broader beauty categories. As the Korean cosmetic industry continues to shape beauty trends, Kolmar Korea’s growth underscores the increasing significance of innovation in the global cosmetic industry as well as expertise and technological advancements being key to adapting to US consumer needs.
Emma Potts is a Spring 2025 Young Professional at the East-West Center in Washington. Emma recently graduated from Columbia University, majoring in Political Science and East Asian Languages & Cultures.