Kisa, a new restaurant that opened in April in NYC, transports diners to the nostalgic world of Korean taxi driver culture while preserving flavors that are slowly fading away.
Kisa (기사), which means “taxi driver” in Korean, opened its doors in April on the Lower East Side of New York City, bringing a taste of authentic Korean taxi driver culture to the city. Restaurant owners David JoonWoo Yun, Steve Jaewoo Choi, and Yong Min Kim along with chef Simon Lee, aimed to replicate the feeling of a 기사 식당 (gisa sikdang), where taxi drivers in South Korea enjoy hearty meals in a quick paced environment. With minimal seating and fast, healthy food, Kisa has quickly become a popular hotspot, drawing eager customers who line up outside for a unique experience.
Similar to New York, South Korea, especially Seoul, has a large taxi driver culture. Gisa sikdangs are typically open 24 hours and serve as quick stops where taxi drivers can enjoy hearty meals before getting back on the road. These restaurants offer affordable and large portions of dishes like pork belly, pork cutlets, bibimbap, and stews- traits that Kisa has replicated.
Kisa offers four entrees: bulgogi, spicy pork, stir-fried squid, and bibimbap, each accompanied by seasonal side dishes. Additionally, the owners have intentionally included coffee and Yakut at the end of the meal which is a typical way to conclude a dining experience in gisa sikdangs in South Korea. Despite the similarities, there is a big difference between Kisa in NYC and South Korea; while a meal at Kisa averages $32 per person, similar meals in South Korea typically cost between $10-15.
Korean Immigration to the United States
Diaspora communities often preserve their heritage through culinary traditions. Influenced by their cultural roots, this sentiment inspired David Yun to open Kisa to preserve a unique aspect of Korean culture. In an interview with The Korean Times, he stated, “Having grown up visiting these places with my family, I feared their unique history and flavors might disappear. Inspired by this, I decided to bring a piece of Korea to New York City.”
The Korean diaspora in the United States reflects the broader patterns of immigration and cultural exchange. While New York in particular has emerged as a significant hub for Korean immigrants, other regions, such as California and Hawai'i, also experienced notable influxes throughout the 1970s and 80s. In California, cities like Los Angeles are home to thriving Korean communities, driven by opportunities in business and education. Hawai'i's unique historical connections with Korea facilitated the establishment of Korean enclaves, with many immigrants drawn to the island for agricultural work.
Korean immigrants chose New York for various reasons. The city was already established as a melting pot, offering a diverse environment that promised economic opportunities and social mobility. New York’s extensive transportation networks and proximity to established Korean communities provided a support system, easing the transition for newcomers and allowing them to navigate life in a new country more efficiently. This community aspect was vital, helping immigrants retain their cultural identity while integrating into American society.
Currently, the Korean population in New York City is one of the largest Korean communities in the US. It is primarily concentrated in neighborhoods like Flushing, Queens, and parts of Manhattan such as Koreatown. The Korean communities located in NY and California, given their large size, along with the current K-wave, or Hallyu, have significantly influenced the spread of Korean culture in the US. This wave encompasses K-pop, dramas, and cuisine.
Kisa fits well into New York culture. While the taxi driver lifestyle here lacks specific restaurants created solely to serve drivers, as seen in Korea, it has its own informal network of late-night delis and restaurants that cater to drivers who work around the clock. These establishments serve as gathering spots for taxi drivers, much like gisa sikdangs do in Seoul. Kisa’s creation highlights the contributions of the Korean immigrant community, showcasing a commitment to preserving cultural heritage within the US.
Samantha Garcia participates in the Young Professionals Program at the East-West Center in Washington, DC. She is also a student at Ewha Womens University, acquiring her M.A. in Development Cooperation with concentrations in East Asia and Womens Studies.